I’ve had delivery of a Wormery with an army of Tiger worms. It’s great.
The kit is well designed and very easy to put together and get started.
Assembling a wormery:-
The bedding block is soaked in warm water and expands. The bedding is evenly distributed on the lower section.
The worms are placed on the bedding material and left to burrow in.
Once settled in, you can add your first waste, as the worms will start looking for food.
Some of the Tiger worms went walkabout but most have settled in and are munching away.
For convenience I keep my wormery close to the backdoor. It doesn’t give off any nasty odours.
The kit comes with worm treats to keep the worms happy – Ah – very thoughtful.
The nice things about a wormery:-
It’s a satisfying use of kitchen waste to make rich, clean weed-free compost for your garden plants.
Tiger worms eat kitchen waste that would otherwise attract rats
A wormery produces liquid fertiliser which you can feed to your plants though it needs to be diluted before putting around your plants
Kids and grown up love seeing what the worms are up to.
Not expensive, just a bit initial expensive buying the equipment which will last for years
Easy to set up
Rats can’t easily get into a wormery unlike a compost bin.
The wormery can be positioned at a convenient location near the back door. No bad odours
You reduce the amount of food waste going to landfill
Although smaller than a conventional compost bin used for garden waste, a wormery is good if you only have a small garden (as you can also add garden waste in the wormery – but in smaller quantities compared to a larger compost bin) and you’re limited on space.
For info call Wiggley Wigglers about Can-O-Worms
‘Yes’: items you can put in your wormery:
raw fruit (but not citrus) and vegetables
tea bags, coffee grounds and coffee filters
plant remains (including cut flowers and house plants)
droppings from animals that eat plants (i.e. hamsters, rabbits, gerbil) and associated bedding
Horse & cow manure
egg boxes and cardboard e.g. cereal boxes and corrugated board (scrunched up) – avoid waxed cartons and sticky tape
paper – towels, napkins and bags (scrunched up)
Small amount of grass cuttings
weeds (annuals and perennials)
old flowers and bedding plants
Small quantities of young hedge clippings (Large amounts of leaves will heat up and kill the worms)
Small quanities of garden leaves (large quantities are best composted on their own in plastic sacks or wire mesh containers)
Old straw and hay
Woody prunings (small quantities)
Sawdust and wood shavings (small quantities).
Vacuum cleaner dust, hair, wool & cotton
‘No’: items which should not be put into a wormery:
Meat, fish and bones – although these can break down in the composter they can attract animals including rats or mice and they can also produce offensive smells as they break down
Citric Fruits (causes acidic conditions)
Large woody material such as branches, large prunings or pieces of processed wood
don’t add droppings from any meat eating animals (like cats or dogs) as these can pass on a number of diseases
Perennial weeds such as couch grass, ground elder, bindweed and oxalis – these might not die during composting and can re-sprout after the compost is harvested. To avoid this, put them in a black plastic bag and leave in the sun for several weeks – then chop them up and place them into the compost pile
Diseased plant material and plant seeds (not dead so the worms won’t eat them)
Poisonous plants such as oleander, hemlock and castor bean – these can harm soil life so only add these in small quantities – chop up ivy and succulents before composting, or they may sprout in the compost
Leaves from plants containing acids and resins toxic to other plants should only be used as mulch around the plants they came from – examples are eucalyptus, bay laurel, walnut, juniper, acacia, cypress and rhododendron